hexagon tips

Just a quick pop in post before I go back to my packing! I have had quite a few people ask me to share some tips on how I sew my hexagons. It took me a long time (months) to find a technique that worked for me and I encourage everyone to try several different stitches to find the one that works best for them. 

First, I straight stitch along the edges of two hexagons, making sure to just skim the top of the paper inside. Making sure to pull my thread nice and snug. You want it to be as tight as possible without causing it to ripple.

Then once I reach the other side, I back (straight) stitch in the opposite holes of the original straight stitch...

When finished it will look like a solid line of stitches (please excuse my inconsistency, I am working on that part....luckily it doesn't really affect the outcome). The back stitch evens the tension of the original straight stitch and helps get rid of the tugs on the front of the hexagons.

And thats pretty much it. If you make sure your stitches are nice and tight it should look like this...

 I do have to admit that it does add a  little time onto making hexes when sewing this way. The whip stitch was much faster, but I couldn't get the tension on the fabric consistent enough not to tug on the front. The ladder stitch that Heather taught me was amazing, but I was WAY too slow at it to keep it up....but her technique is how I discovered that the tension on the fabric was the key (thanks again Heather). 

Just a few extra notes:

I use a hand quilting thread (100% cotton by Gutermann) for extra strength. I kept breaking all the others when pulling tight to keep my tension right. 

I use a quilter's knot in the beginning of all my threads. It is thick and strong enough not to pull through the fabric when pulling tight.

Last but not least...I only iron my hexes with the paper in place. Once you remove the paper ironing can pull on your fabric and stitches warping the end result. So once all my hexes are sewn together, I iron them one last time and then carefully remove all the paper.

Here is a block that I made in my down time this week for my son's quilt. I told him that the grey seeds prove my love for him!! I had a precious little of the FMF grey seeds for my hexagon quilt and sacrificed most of it for his quilt...now that is mother love or maybe just plain insanity!!

sewing machine cover tutorial

Ok....here it goes. Keep in mind this is my first time writing up a tutorial, so if you need more info or have questions, just let me know. I am a very visual person, so for the sake of this tutorial, I made a second cover for my daughters sewing machine. She plays with my old Kenmore with the needle removed, and loves every second of it....she doesn't even realize that she isn't really sewing!!

What you need:

-decorative block (if you want to use the flying geese, like mine, the tutorial for that block it here)

-about a 3/4 yard of fabric, you can piece use smaller pieces and just sew them together

-20" wide fusible interfacing (I used SF-101 by Pellon) enough to match the measurements of your sewing machine. I used about a yard.

-thread to match your choice of fabrics

-marking pen/straight pins

First you need to find the circumference of your sewing machine. I would recommend measuring at the bottom of your sewing machine, a lot of them are wider on the bottom. This machine is 40.5" around the bottom.

The second measurement you want is the height of your machine.

Like my son is demonstrating in this picture, you want to measure from one side over the top to the bottom of the other side. This machine's height measures at 25".

The first measurement will be used to determine the width of your fabric. You want to take the circumference of the machine divide it 2 and then add an inch for seam allowance. For example: this machine measured 40.5" divided by two is 20.25", I then added an inch for 21.25" as the final width measurement of my fabric. The height measurement will let you know how long your cover needs to be. I added an inch to this also.

Before cutting your fabric, you need to decide where you want your decorative block to be located. On my daughters cover I decided to center the decorative block, but on my original cover I offset the decorative block to the left. The decorative block is 11.25", each side panel is 5" wide and 26" long. I chose to put 2.75" of fabric underneath my block. Again, my decorative block is 11.25" + 2.75" below+ a 12" panel above the block to equal my needed length of 26".

I attached the top and bottom panels to my block first. Then the side panels.

Once my cover fabric was assembled, I ironed it to my fusible interfacing. I used interfacing to make my cover stiffer, but you could also choose to make an inner lining, if you wanted a softer look.

Then simply fold your cover in half and sew up both of the sides the sides together.

Then while wrong side out, slip the cover over your sewing machine to pin the corners.

Pin your corners down to the top of your sewing machine. Then slip the cover off and mark your sew lines on your two corners.

Once your corners are sewn closed, trim off the excess leaving a .25"seam.

Turn your cover right side out finish of your cover bottom by folding over the raw edge and pining it in place.

You can use any stitch you desire to finish off your edge, I chose decorative stitches to add a little added touch to my covers.

Your cover is now complete and ready to keep all that unwanted dust off of your treasured machine!

As a side note: I was asked for the measurements of the original cover I made. To be honest, when I made my original cover I did it all by eye, so don't have them. I added in the measuring techniques for this tutorial, with my son's help.